Picture that I shall be following for Fourth toille

Full toille.

Third toille!

I began by going into the costume store to see what pieces were available. I have kept the same corset throughout but for my skirt all I need is a peticoat with a bustle. I found the exact thing so I am ready to start!!

Picture that I shall be following for third toille.

Full skirt.

Creating the correct shape to work on top of..

I went to the costume store and found a crinoline that was correct  and I also found a couple of peticoats that are perfect too-horraaaay!! However.. when I then put them on the mannequin I relaised the the shape was not correct, there was not enough volume to the skirt and there were no other suitable peticoats.. After talking to Dexter I decided to pad out one side of the peticoat by pleating lots of calico and arranging these pleated pieces around the peticoat so that it gives extra volume. This seemed to take a long time and I had not allowed for this. It had to be done but was farily irratating.

Even though I found this frustrating and it initially felt like a waste of time, I think it was iportant as if I go into this industry not everything will go my way and I need to learn to adapt things so that they are appropriate. It was also interesting to see how the shape of the peticoat could be changed by adding such simple pleated pieces. After all this project is about learning new techniques and preparing myself for third year and I feel like I am gaining skills and learning to work independently especially as the majority of this piece (if not all) will be done at home.

Research for second piece

For the begginning of my next piece I went back to my research booklet and found these images which are perfect to look at whilst doing my next piece. The sillhouette is just like the one I am creating so I will be using these heavily when constructing my second piece.

I then came accross this picture about the undergarments that would've been worn. I need to find a large crinoline to give me the full shape and maybe a peticoat also to help fill out the shape. I need to get these from the costume store before I leave for easter!

Picture that I shall be following for second toille.

Half a toille.

Getting Started!

These are photos to show the undergarments I will be using underneathe my pieces. Even though I have found from my research that the underwear in the earliest piece would not have been like this, these are the closest pieces I could find to what would've been worn. I have madesure the corset is not fastened too tightly and I have poisitoned the peticoat much higher to create volume just under the bustline at the back. I will also use wadding to create a better shape at the back so that the muslin will sit correctly and echo that of the picture I am following.

Front.

Back.

Side.

Picture that I shall be following.- Early 19th cent,

The front of this dress.

The back of this dress.

Tutorial-Monday 14th March

 Today I had a tutorial with Dexter to disscuss what I would be constructing and how much. We looked at all of my research and chose four pieces that show the range of shapes used in this era. Dexter also advised for me to think about the areas in which I wanted to improve and also where I wanted to challenge myself. From this project I want to experiment with cutting on a stand on my own to produce patterns that I can refer to later on if need be so I hope to trace them all pieces of my toilles onto paper.
 Dexter and I agreed that only one of my pieces will be a finished toille as this is not the point of this unit. I want to experiment and document my processes so that I really get to know and understand the different silhouettes of the 19th century.

These are the first pieces that Dexter and I agreed on.

Dexter encouraged me to incorporate the top half of the first and the back view of the second. This is because it will be challenging making the front lie flat with all of the shape sitting at the back. I decided this will be half a toille with minimal finishings and I have given myself just over a week to construct this piece which I think will be enough time. This piece will be made from a combination of muslin and light-weight calico. Even though undergarments were different at the beginning of the century to the later part I will be using a later 19th century corset under this aswell as a peti-coat. This is because I could not find the correct undergarments so I chose a corset that should be suitable for all four pieces.

This is the piece that I chose for for the earlier part of the mid 19th cent. Originally I didn't want to include a piece that would be over a crinoline but I was advised to incorporate atleast one of these as it was so significant in this period. I may also look at recreating samples of the decoration too to get an idea about how this was done and also to include in my reference material for the future. This piece intreagued me as the neckline seems unusual as it sits so low on the shoulders. I really like the tailored nature of the bodice as the lines are really flattering to the figure and the curve really e-longates the body. Even though initially I was reluctant to, I am excited about cutting over such a big structure as it will be a completely new experience for me and will hopefully prepare me for future projects and units.

This piece will be half a toille in calico and I have given myself just over a week to do this.

This is my third piece that I have scheduled to start after Easter. This is a skirt from the later half of the middle of the 19th cent. I thought this piece was really stunning as it was so intricut but still had a definate tailored nature to it. Dexter also encouraged me to tackle this piece as it will be a challenge to construct all the different elements to it with the front lying so flat to the legs. This piece will be constructed over a bustle that I will hire from the costume store and will constructed in calico. I have given myself just over a week to create this piece and I feel this amoutn of time will be suitable. I am aiming to construct the whole skirt with basic finishings.

 

This is the fourth and final piece from the late 19th century. I have decided to construct this as a full toille by cutting on a stand. I will pading the mannequin to a fellow pupils measurements for photographs when complete. I feel also that by creating it to an actualy size will mean it will beneficial for future reference and for portfolio uses.

I think this piece really echoes my taste in the era as it holds a structured, strong sillhouette. I really like the shapes that are created by this costume and I have chose a fellow pupil that is tall and slim to really make the most of these garments. This piece will be finished using basic hems and by turning over raw edges and machining down. Again I may include manipulated fabric samples for future reference.

I have given myself two weeks to create this piece as there is more work involved as it is a full toille however at the end of the project I have allocated a week to finish any pieces that are not complete and this will give me time to finish any loose ends. It also gives me an oppotunity to makesure that my blog and research material is all sorted for hand-in.

The Costume Store!

Today Heather, Emily and I visited the costume store to see what underwear was available for us to use. We found a broad range of corsets that would be suitable for cutting on a stand. We also found some crinolines and peticoats that will also come in handy for our projects! We found out from Bunny that we do not have to worry about deposits as the pieces will be staying in the department. It also means that we can go to her as and when we need to sign different bits in and out and not have to worry about booking certain times to see her and the costumes.

I need to now measure my chosen model and makesure I have enough wadding to pad out the mannequin to atleast one dress size bigger so that when the corset is pulled in tight, a suitable shape is created.

These are some pictures of what we found!

Peti-coats.

 

Corsets.

 
                                                                          Crinolines.

 
 
 
                                                                                               Bustles and bum pads.

 
A variety of corsets and stays, all creating slightly different shapes and different styles that sit differently on                                                                     the body.
  

By looking at the different garments I realised the amount of garments the ladies of this era would've worn. I really enjoy history and I am really enjoying researching into the period aswell as the fashion.

And So it Begins!..

Making a start!..

As I was not able to attend yesterdays session I have been told that I need research to take to Monday's session (14th March). So far I have found some images and patterns to follow in Janet Arnold's books, these patterns dating 1860-1940 and 1660-1860.

We also need to look at Norah Waugh's work and I was able to  rent her book on 'The Cut on Women's Clothes. 1600-1930'. Hopefully between these two books I will find suitable images and patterns to follow.

At the moment I feel slightly out of my depth with it all but this is proabably due to me missing yesterdays session. Tomorrow I am talking to the other girls in my group as I will be able to read through their notes.